Dolphinrc file reverted by dolphin at startup - but I need to set my preferences

SUCCESS

I edited both

~/.config/session/dolphin_dolphin_dolphin
~/.config/dolphinrc

to change MenuBar=Disabled to MenuBar=Enabled and then...
... at least if doesn't bring the MenuBar=Disabled, the line is just remove.

And I can get the menu bar with Ctrl-M
(work for dolphin, not Chrome)

(I also unloaded the wiget, not sure if it was required qdbus org.kde.kded5 /kded org.kde.kded5.unloadModule "appmenu"

I'll tag this solution if I narrow down the bare minimum.