SUCCESS
I edited both
~/.config/session/dolphin_dolphin_dolphin
~/.config/dolphinrc
to change MenuBar=Disabled
to MenuBar=Enabled
and then...
... at least if doesn't bring the MenuBar=Disabled
, the line is just remove.
And I can get the menu bar with Ctrl-M
(work for dolphin, not Chrome)
(I also unloaded the wiget, not sure if it was required qdbus org.kde.kded5 /kded org.kde.kded5.unloadModule "appmenu"
I'll tag this solution if I narrow down the bare minimum.